If you've shopped for dressmaking fabric lately, you'll have seen scuba everywhere: bodycon dresses, skater skirts, structured tops and smart co-ords. It's one of the easiest stretch fabrics to sew and one of the most forgiving to wear. This guide explains what scuba fabric actually is, how the different types compare, what to make with it and how to get a neat finish at home.
What is scuba fabric?
Scuba is a double knit: two layers of fine knitted fabric interlocked into one thick, smooth, springy cloth. It's usually made from polyester with a little elastane (spandex), which gives it stretch and helps it spring back into shape. The name comes from its likeness to wetsuit neoprene, but dressmaking scuba is much thinner, softer and lighter, and there's no rubber in it.
Why dressmakers love it:
- It has body. Scuba holds its shape, so skirts stand away from the body and dresses skim rather than cling.
- It stretches. Fitted styles are comfortable to wear, and many patterns need fewer darts or fastenings.
- It doesn't fray. Cut edges stay neat, so you can leave hems raw if you like.
- It resists creasing. It comes out of a suitcase looking the same as it went in.
- It prints beautifully. The smooth surface takes bright, crisp prints, which is why you'll find so many florals, animal prints and checks on scuba.
The main types of scuba fabric
Not all scuba is the same. These are the four types you'll find in our scuba fabric collection, from most structured to most fluid.
Scuba stretch
Classic scuba: smooth, slightly spongy and the most structured of the four. It's the one to choose when you want shape, such as a skater skirt that flares out or a pencil skirt that stays put.
Scuba crepe
Scuba with a fine crepe texture on the face. It's a little lighter than classic scuba, with a matt finish and a bit more drape. That makes it a good all-rounder for dresses, wide-leg trousers, tops and co-ords, and the texture is kind to the odd crease or pull.
Valentino scuba crepe
A softer, lighter-weight scuba crepe with a fine textured face, good stretch and a smooth drape. It still holds a shape, but it moves more than standard scuba, so it suits wrap dresses, midi dresses and tops with gathers or soft pleats.
Liverpool textured scuba
Liverpool is a stretchy knit with a fine, crepe-like texture on the face. It has more body than single jersey but is lighter than standard scuba, and it resists creasing well. It's a great choice for everyday dresses, skirts, tops and travel-friendly outfits.
What can you make with scuba fabric?
- Skater dresses and skater skirts
- Bodycon, shift and pencil dresses
- Pencil skirts and A-line skirts
- Tailored and wide-leg trousers
- Structured tops, peplum tops and boxy tees
- Two-piece co-ords
- Children's party dresses
Scuba is less suited to very floaty styles with lots of gathering, and because polyester doesn't breathe like natural fibres, it can feel warm on a hot summer's day. For breezy summer dresses, look at viscose instead.
How to sew scuba fabric
Scuba is very beginner-friendly. A few simple habits make all the difference:
- Use a ballpoint or stretch needle (size 75/11 or 90/14). A sharp universal needle can cut the knit and cause skipped stitches.
- Use a stretchy stitch. A narrow zigzag or your machine's stretch stitch lets seams stretch with the fabric. An overlocker is ideal; our overlocking thread comes in 5,000-yard cones in dozens of colours.
- Pin inside the seam allowance, or use clips. Pins can leave small marks on some scuba.
- Press with care. Use a low heat and a pressing cloth, because polyester can go shiny or melt under a hot iron.
- Keep hems simple. You can leave the edge raw, or turn it up once and stitch with a twin needle or a zigzag.
- Skip the lining. Scuba is opaque and smooth on both sides, so most garments don't need one.
- Try a walking foot if the layers creep as you sew.
How much scuba fabric do you need?
Our scuba is 58" (150cm) wide. At that width, a pencil skirt needs about 1m, a knee-length skater dress about 2m and a wrap dress about 2.5–3m. So a 3m length covers most dresses with room to spare, or a top and skirt co-ord. For a maxi dress or jumpsuit, choose a 4m length. For an extra-long maxi or a matching set, go for a 5m length. For a full chart, see our guide to how much fabric you need for a dress.
Caring for scuba
- Wash at 30°C on a gentle cycle, inside out.
- Line dry. It dries quickly and rarely needs ironing.
- If you do iron, use a cool iron and a pressing cloth.
Scuba fabric FAQ
Is scuba fabric stretchy?
Yes. Most scuba stretches well across the width and a little along the length, so cut your pattern pieces with the greatest stretch going around the body.
Is scuba fabric see-through?
Most scuba is opaque, even in pale colours, which is why it rarely needs lining.
What's the difference between scuba and ponte?
Ponte Roma is also a double knit, but it's firmer, flatter and a little less springy. It's the classic choice for leggings, fitted trousers and workwear. Scuba has more bounce and a smoother, more structured look. See our full guide to scuba vs Ponte Roma.
Does scuba fabric crease?
Hardly at all, which makes it a favourite for workwear, holidays and occasion dresses.
Is scuba good for summer?
It's fine for summer evenings and occasions, but for hot days a breathable fabric such as viscose is more comfortable.
Shop scuba fabric
Browse our scuba and Liverpool collections, or see our wider range of jersey fabrics. Every piece is 58" (150cm) wide and sold in 3 metre, 4 metre or 5 metre lengths. Many prints are one-off limited runs, so when they're gone, they're gone. Free UK delivery on orders of £30 and over.