On a hot day, the fabric matters more than the pattern. A dress in the wrong fabric clings, traps heat and creases the moment you sit down. One in the right fabric feels cool, moves with you and still looks good at the end of the day. Here are the best fabrics for summer dresses, what each one is like to sew, and a few to avoid when the temperature climbs.
What makes a good summer dress fabric?
- Breathability. Fabrics with natural or plant-based fibres, such as viscose and cotton, let air through and absorb moisture, so they feel cooler.
- Drape. A fabric that flows away from the body keeps air moving and looks relaxed.
- Weight. Lightweight fabrics are cooler, but check they're not too see-through.
- Easy care. Summer dresses get washed often, so choose something that copes with the washing machine.
The best fabrics for summer dresses
Viscose
Viscose is breathable, soft against the skin and drapes beautifully, which makes it the classic summer dress fabric. It's perfect for floaty midi and maxi dresses, tiered dresses, wrap dresses and kaftans. Viscose elastane jersey adds stretch for easy T-shirt dresses.
Sewing tip: pre-wash viscose before cutting, as it can shrink slightly, and press on a medium heat.
Soft cotton viscose
Soft cotton viscose is a soft, breathable woven fabric with a gentle drape. It's comfortable in warm weather and easy to cut and sew, so it's a great choice if you're new to dressmaking. It suits shirt dresses, sundresses, button-through dresses and children's summer clothes.
Crepe de chine
Woven crepe de chine is lightweight, with a soft, slightly textured surface and a fluid drape. It's ideal for midi and maxi dresses, wrap dresses and blouses that you want to move beautifully. It can be slippery, so cut with a rotary cutter or sharp shears, use fine pins and finish seams with an overlocker or French seams.
Plisse pleated fabric
Plisse has fine permanent pleats that give texture and movement, and it stretches across the pleats for an easy fit. It doesn't need ironing, which makes it brilliant for holidays. It's ideal for flowing midi skirts, wide-leg trousers and co-ords.
Poly cotton
Poly cotton combines the comfort of cotton with the strength and crease resistance of polyester. It's easy care and good value, which makes it a practical choice for simple shift dresses, linings and toiles.
Fabrics to save for cooler days
Thick double knits such as scuba and Ponte Roma are mostly polyester and hold heat, so they can feel warm on a hot afternoon. They're perfect for summer evenings, weddings and air-conditioned offices, though. Velvet is best left for autumn and winter.
Check before you cut: is it see-through?
Light colours and lightweight fabrics can be more see-through than you expect. Hold a single layer up to the light with your hand behind it. If you can see your hand clearly, plan to:
- line the bodice and skirt, or
- add an underskirt or slip, or
- choose a busier print, which hides more than a plain.
How much fabric do you need?
A summer midi or wrap dress usually takes about 2.5–3m of 150cm-wide fabric, and a maxi dress about 3–3.5m, so choose a 4 metre length for a maxi. For an extra-long or very full maxi, or a matching set, go for a 5 metre length. See our full guide to how much fabric you need for a dress.
Shop summer dress fabric
Browse our viscose, soft cotton viscose, crepe and plisse collections, or see all our fabrics. Every piece is 58" (150cm) wide and sold in 3 metre, 4 metre or 5 metre lengths. Most prints are one-off limited runs, so when they're gone, they're gone. Free UK delivery on orders of £30 and over.